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Gini Briggs - Julie's Jewelies
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Beading and Jewelry making techniques Beading and Jewelry making techniques

 

STEP BY STEP INSTRUCTIONS FOR SINGLE-STRAND BRACELETS

Use only real precious metal crimps: they hold up better. Sterling crimps are more flexible and respond easily to flattening. Base metal crimps can crack and wear. leaving you picking up handfuls of beads. Use the best flexible wire you can find. We prefer Acculon It is very strong and very pliable.

1. Cut 12" of flexible wire from spool.

2. To determine the size of your finished piece: Measure your wrist with a tape measure. Add 1" to your wrist measurement for the correct size of your finished bracelet. Note: If your beads are exceptionally large. you may need to add more than an inch to compensate for the additional diameter of the large beads. -

3. In these instances we will use a medical clamp to secure one end of the wire while we string. Then we can try the strung bracelet on before adding crimps and toggles. If the bracelet is too long, we can remove the medical clamp and remove a few beads. If it is too short. we can add a few beads.

4. To add the toggle closure to one end of the wire: String on crimp bead to one end of wire allowing it to slide 2" from the end of the flexible wire.

5. Now string one end of the clasp closure onto the wire. Most closures have a special ring for this attachment. you wish. you can add a jump ring or spring ring to the toggle or lobster claw. Be careful to make sure the diameter of the additional jump ring is small enough to easily fit through the toggle ring otherwise you will be unable to close it once upon your wrist.

6. If you are using a toggle. it is best to string the large end first. It will help when measuring for your final fit. 7. If you are using a lobster claw and tab, string the lobster claw first.

8. Holding the crimp bead in place, loop the wire back through the crimp bead.

9. Allow 2" of wire to pass through the crimp bead.

10. Pull the crimp bead up tight against the closure ring.

11. Using a flat nose pliers (not serrated). cover the crimp bead entirely.

12. Press down firmly on the crimp bead.

13. Spin the crimp bead around and press down firmly again. Your crimp bead should be uniformly flattened. Test the closure to be sure the crimp bead will hold by pulling Ilrmly on the wire.

 

14. On your bead board, lay out approximately 7" of beads. (Most wrists are approximately 7". Your toggle clasp will account for 1" of your finished work. If your wrist size is more than 6," add additional beads to your length. If your wrist size is smaller. use fewer beads.) Your design can vary. Some people prefer consecutive patterns, others like random patterns. Work from the pattern illustration of one of our projects or note the pattern ideas in our jewelry section.

15. The first few beads on either end of your bracelet must accommodate both strands of wire, so you should avoid ending with seed beads. Try using a 6/0 or 8/0 bead for ending. if possible.

16. Once you are satisfied with your pattern, begin beading. Start by adding one 3mm-4mm silver or gold bead. String the metal bead through both strands of wire and place it up close to the crimp bead.

17. String on the first few beads. Pull back the long wire away from the bead and cut away the shorter wire. Discard this wire

18. Now string on the remainder of your beads.

19. Examine your work: check that your short wire has remained strung within the first few beads. and that no beads are "hung up" on the wire. If this is your first bracelet. it is now time to try it on! Holding the open end firmly (or ask someone else to hold it for you). wrap the bracelet around your wrist to see if your measurements were accurate. Sometimes beads resting on the bead board actually require less room once strung. This especially happens with gemstone chips. At rest. the chips will appear to occupy more space than they actually do.

20. Once you have completed a bracelet that fits you properly and know exactly where you would like it to rest on your arm, you ean use this bracelet for a pattern for other bracelets you would like to make. This is still a "trial and error" technique. Everyone has an imaginary point on his or her wrists that feels right. Younger wearers might prefer a bracelet that is worn with a more snug fit. Some men like their bracelets worn higher on their arms. away from their watchbands. Most women seem to prefer the bracelet to rest at the wrist joint. just showing below a cuff line. Everyone does have their own preferences. so best to have the wearer try on a few bracelcts before making one for a friend. Remember too. that larger beads usually take up more depth as well as length and you may need to experiment to get the fit right when making a bracelet with larger beads on it.

21. When all the beads are in place. add the remaining silver or gold metal bead and the remaining crimp bead.

22. Holding the crimp bead in place. string on the opposite end of your clasp.

23. Now. loop the wire back through the crimp bead. this time stringing it through two additional beads as you go.

24. Once the wire clears the second bead. you can begin to pull the wire taut. Note: It is easiest to pull the wire through the crimp. silver bead and end beads. if you can keep the crimp bead AWAY from the

clasp end as you go. Sometimes. if enough wire remains. you can simple feed the loop until most the wire has been strung in place. Other times you will need the aid of the needle nose pliers to hold the end of the wire and pull it through the beads as you go.

25. Once the wire has been pulled as far as possible. you should check your beads from the other end of the bracelet. Holding the finished end down. make sure no space remains between any of the beads. Sometimes a bead will get "hung up" on the wire and more often than not, wont be discovered until after you have crimped your second crimp bead unless you take the time here to inspect your work.

26. Once all is well. pull once again on your wire for a final fit. Cover the crimp bead with the needle nose pliers and then press down firmly. Flip your crimp bead over and apply the same pressure to the opposite side. Now tug slightly on the beads to be sure the crimp is in place properly.

27. Separate the beads where the small wire rests into a 45-degree angle. Cut away the shorter strand of wire by holding the t1at side of your wire cutters to the bead. Even the smallest little wire bit remaining can cause irritation to the wrist! So. its best to cut really close. Make sure the beaded wire remains away from the cutters, or you will have to do this all again.

28. Now try it on again. Hopefully it is a fit. If not. just cut away the wire below the silver bead and restring it again. All you have lost is two crimp beads and a little time. Add or subtract the beads to make it a perfect Jlt!

29. Once your bracelet is complete, I would suggest that you put it on a flat bed scanner and scan the bracelet full size. It is fun to note the exact size of the bracelet. the date it was made, the person who owns it, what types and origins of the beads and where the beads where purchased. You can even keep a scrapbook of all of the beaded work you do! It will be a fond memory of how much you will learn over the years ahead as well as a document as to where many beads originated.

 

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